On day thirteen Molly and I had the pleasure of hiking over Muir Pass and past the splendid lakes that lie in it’s shadow to the north.  Wanda Lake, named for John Muir’s eldest daughter is home to a rare treat, frogs living at 11,500′.  As we walked past Wanda lake we were startled by the plop, plop, plop of frogs jumping into the lake as we passed by.  We stopped to admire the frogs living in this relatively inhospitable environment.  Check this post for more on the Mountain Yellow Legged Frog.

Muir Pass was in my opinion one of the easiest 12,000′ passes along the trail, the final ascent from Evolution Lake is just 1200′ and it is a very gradual slope all the way up.  While I was reminiscing about the Muir Pass summit experience I began to realize that more often than not I felt that reaching the summit of each of the eleven passes was relatively easy.  Why were they “easy”?  I think it has a lot to do with the strategy we used while hiking the trail.

Like most others who hike the JMT we had an itinerary planned long before we even set foot on the trail.  That itinerary remained unchanged for exactly one day before we modified it for our hiking strengths and weaknesses.  Pretty early on we decided to attack the big climbs in sections.  The basic strategy is to look at the passes and plan to hike up approximately half of the required elevation on one day, then camp and hike up the rest the next day when you are fresh and relatively full of energy.  But like the saying goes hike your own hike and follow a strategy that works for you!

8-8-2009
Once again I woke up with a sore throat and felt weak much of the day.  I tried sleeping without socks last night and that did not work very well, my feet froze.  We had only a 1200 foot ascent to Muir Pass but every foot was amazing.  The lakes were a gorgeous teal blue that Molly said looked unnatural.  The Climb to the pass was easy and the descent was long but not too difficult.  In my mind Silver Pass still holds the record for worst descent.  We are camped near Big Pete meadow and are taking advantage of the altitude with a warm campfire.

Finding images that compel me to capture them can sometimes be challenging.  Sometimes I try to force an image or take a picture that does not feel right, those images very rarely turn out to be something that I am proud of.  Other times images come at me in a flood and it takes all of my concentration to make sure all of the technical aspects of image capture come together.  One of the good days was August 7 when we were hiking through the Evolution Range.
I felt ill the whole day but really wanted to make it to Evolution Lake before we stopped for the day, and I am really glad we made it there.  As the golden hour came the mountains were wrapped in clouds and set aglow by the setting sun.  The scene felt natural and I was able to find several compelling compositions in the span of an  hour.  As a photographer, these are the days I live for!

8-7-2009
I don’t know what is going on but I still feel sick!  I still have a sore throat and still feel low on energy.  Sick or not we still gained 2800 feet and walked 12+ miles for the day.   We passed 130 miles in total today and I am determined to finish this hike!  I did not take many pictures today, mostly because I was focusing all of my energy on hiking.  When we arrived at Evolution Lake a spectacular sunset unfolded and I quickly rattled off a hundred frames or so.  We found a neat wind sheltered spot for our tent but in the process of pitching the tent I broke one of the guy lines.  I fixed it with a square knot and then found someone’s discarded shoe string.  That shoe string may come in handy.  Just before we came over the crest to Evolution Lake we heard the “Cheeseburger Bird” for the first time.  I was really starting to doubt the existence of this bird until I heard the unmistakable song.

When We were relaxing at VVR a weather report came in that was somewhat alarming.  The Dweeb Report (yes that is what it is called) was predicting a weather freak-show starting on the sixth.  Predictions were for three to six inches of snow down to seven thousand feet with substantially more on the passes.  A report like this presents a difficult decision for backpackers and an especially important decision for backpackers who pack as light as Molly and I do.

We are not equipped for snow travel so in the event of snow we would likely be holed up in our tent for a couple of days until it warmed up again.  Several backpackers decided to extend their stay at VVR to see how the weather played out.  I spoke with a couple attempting to hike the JMT with their two young children, they had decided to end their trip at VVR.  They had already been trapped in a hailstorm on Donahue Pass and were concerned about hypothermia in the event of a snowstorm.  Us?  Well, ever the skeptic i decided to ignore the weather report and continue Hiking.  I had bailout points marked on the map and was ready to live with the decision.

As it turned out there was no snow, no rain, just some clouds and a ten degree drop in temperature for a day.  Seldon Pass was EASY Molly and I both felt like we just flew up the pass and cruised down the other side.  In retrospect I think Seldon Pass is the easiest pass of the entire trip.

8-6-2009
Last night I had dreams about being sick and that led to me feeling ill again this morning.  We slept in so that I could recover and finally got up around 8:00.  I felt 90% but still have a scratchy throat.  Most of the day was cold and cloudy, especially the hike up to Seldon Pass.  Once late afternoon came the clouds had mostly disappeared but it was about ten degrees colder than normal.  The day’s hiking was easy and I kept thinking that Seldon Pass was the Yin to the Silver Pass Yang.  Tonight might be our last campfire as we are mostly going to be above 10,000 feet from here on.

I have been hiking for as long as I can remember, for most of those years I have been carrying what I would consider to be a heavy backpack.  Two Years ago when I hiked from Agnew Meadows to Toulumne Meadows was the last time I will ever hike with a heavy pack.  I have made the transition to Ultra Light Packing and have no regrets.  Packing light makes hiking fun, rewarding and sometimes easy.  Well maybe not easy but certainly much easier than it would be with a heavy pack.

While on the trail we frequently passed people who would look at our packs and ask us how we were able to carry such a small load.  I would generally answer by saying,”by only carrying what we absolutely needed.”  It took a long time to decide what I could go without, but the idea that the hike would be easier without superfluous items made the weight cutting easy.  Some days I would miss one luxury item or another but then there were days like 8-1-09 when I was glad to be carrying as little as possible.

On 8-1-09 Molly and I were feeling more tired than the days effort warranted and we ended up hiking about 2.5 miles further than we were planning.  I was so exhausted this day that besides a few snaps here and there I did not take any pictures.  Overall it was a pretty difficult day.  Had we been carrying heavy packs we either would not have gone nearly as far or we would have been utterly exhausted by the end of the day.   Going light made this day a lot easier than it would have otherwise been.

If you are backpacking with more than 35lbs I urge you to check out Backpacking Light.  It is a subscription site but well worth the price.  They have a wealth of knowledge contained on their pages, knowledge that was instrumental in helping me have a successful first ultra light trip.

Our Packing list can be downloaded Here.  You will need Excel to read it.

8-1-09
Exhausted once more!
Today our goal was to make it to lower trinity lake…
We awoke to an amazing sunrise with a glass like Thousand Island Lake reflecting Banner Peak..  After enjoying the sunrise and capturing a few images I started preparing breakfast while Molly packed our gear.  We didn’t get started hiking until 8:30 because we were cooking for four and playing host to Mom & Dad.  Dad lost his wallet (yes Dad brought his WALLET on the trail) and that slowed us down too.  After summiting the ridge  above Garnet Lake there was an amazing view of the Sierra to the south.  Farther on down the hill we talked to a father and son who were very interested in our small and light packs.  The most unexpected part of the day was the super steep climb out of the Shadow Lake area.  We finally made it up to Rosalie Lake where I took a quick plunge to clean up a bit.  We rested for a bit  and then set out for Trinity Lake.  We made it to Trinity Lake without event but there was no clean water there.  We had to continue on another 2.5 miles to Johnston Meadow before we could make camp.  We were both exhausted and I feel like I am more tired than I should be.